You find yourself looking for studs, heavy leather and the occasional loud print. While the comparatively understated looks may confuse at first, we appreciate menswear making more than just a brief appearance this time around.
Since his sophomore season, we see Creative Director Anthony Vaccarello picking up the pace. Fortunately, the absence of familiar elements does not negate the rock sensibility of Saint Laurent. Some things remain unchanged. The overdose of black is retained, along with bombers and streamlined shirts. The jeans may not be skinny anymore, but the iconic ties still are. The added hints of Morocco in both colour and shapes are a nod to recently passed co-founder Pierre Bergé and the late Yves Saint Laurent, echoing the Marrakech that marked a significant time for these two pillars of the house.
Take the collection as a whole, and you have the regalia of a rocker who doesn’t need to prove himself, whose clothing choices effortlessly align with his identity. Take the collection apart, however, and you get strong, wearable, timeless pieces. It’s disruptive, it’s languorous. Lofty keywords aside, the best part is that Saint Laurent pants finally fit.