Runway Review: Burberry February 2018 Show
Christopher Bailey presents his last collection for the British luxury house.
BY Eugene Lim | Feb 20, 2018 | Fashion
It's usually at the end when we are the most retrospective. At the Burberry February 2018 show, Christopher Bailey was certainly contemplative of the 17 years he had spent at the house. Charged with revitalising the brand, Bailey moved away from the chav image that Burberry was associated with then he took over, and transformed it into the first luxury house to embrace the digital age. From previewing looks on their digital platforms before the show, to live streaming and spearheading the See-Now-Buy-Now model (now imitated by various brands), Burberry was an early adopter of the information revolution.
Calling the collection "Time", Bailey's last show for Burberry was a reflection of the past, present, and future. Featuring a medley of Bailey's greatest hits at the house, archival prints were reintroduced with a modern spin. Case in point: the new Rainbow heritage check as an emblematic stamp of Bailey's support of the LGBTQ+ communities.
The collection was divided into two parts. The first featured sweaters, baseball caps, scarves and tote bags bearing the "Burberrys" logo—a tribute to Burberry licensing deal in the 80s—that is now available for purchase in stores.
The second part of the collection, scheduled to be launched in May, featured the "main line" and was a tour de force of covetable pieces. Think: shearling military jackets and hoodies, patchwork windbreakers, and down coats. The trenchcoat, which has gone through multiple iterations under Bailey's watch, was also presented in a simple and generous cut. Tailoring in general was given a softer edge; routinely paired with knits and kilts. The rainbow motif was not only interpreted in the house's heritage check, but also incorporated onto a soft lambskin leather jacket and, our personal favourite, applied to an oversized rainbow tie-dyed puffer jacket.
At the end of the rainbow, Bailey found a way to pay tribute to the past, whilst fighting for diversity in an increasingly fractured present, and all with a vision for a better future.