Man at His Best

Forget Fusion. Restaurant Nouri Gets Your Appetite Up With Crossroads Cooking

Exploring the theme of commonality through food.

BY Lestari Hairul | Aug 16, 2017 | Food & Drink

Photographs by Robin Thang

Literally breaking bread with friends was an act that we found charming when we first did it at The Kitchen at Bacchanalia. And at Chef Ivan Brehm’s now-open Restaurant Nouri, the practice is repeated for the first course of its dinner tasting menu. It comes with the possibility of breaking bread with strangers as well, figuratively, as you may be seated at the restaurant’s communal great table. 

Exploring themes of commonality and shared experiences, the food here isn’t defined by a set culture, or worse, tacked-on attempts at “fusion”. Brehm instead presents crossroads cooking; you will probably find familiar flavours of laksa lemak in the Acarajé and Vatapá dish despite the absence of cockles and noodles. Our favourite is the simply named Mushroom that belies complex, robust flavours made up of maitake, black trumpet and black truffle mushrooms delicately accented with a tiny dose of numbing mala—as in the Szechuan hotpot it’s inspired by, another tasty product of the crossroads of different cultures. Dinner ends with a dessert that you’ll have to work to get at.

Restaurant Nouri is located at 72 Amoy Street. For reservations, contact 6221 4148.