30 Minutes With Gregory Bruttin, Director Of Movement At Roger Dubuis

Gregory Bruttin, Director of Movement at Roger Dubuis on tourbillons, custom watches and the company's decision to focus on the ladies' segment.

BY LEONG WONG | May 9, 2016 | Interview

Esquire: Why are there only two men's watches this year?
Gregory Bruttin: The ladies' segment is very important for Roger Dubuis. We have a good collection that we developed four years ago called Velvet. We haven't talked about it for awhile, and feel that the time is right to do so. We want to show the capacity of the brand, both in creative and mechanical terms. There are also more and more ladies who appreciate mechanical watches, and buy their own watches now. Roger Dubuis makes mechanical watches for women, so we wanted to create some buzz surrounding that. 

ESQ: So far, the watches are only in two-hand versions, right?
GB: Not for the Velvet Secret Heart, for which we created a small complication. It is quite challenging to create a complication for ladies. For men, we develop the product with the brand. They are more pragmatic and like the technical side of things. For women, it has more to do with the heart. It is important to put both passion and emotion into the product.

Velvet Secret Heart Double Retrograde Date.

This watch is the only single calendar with retrograde hands. They are on each side of the dial—one side finishes indicating the date and the retrograde behind the dial (the 1st to the 15th), as the other side starts counting (the 16th to the 31st). For the men's version, we show the complexity of the movement; for the ladies, we hide it and highlight the design instead. The complexity here is only to serve the design. The complication has the perfect shape for the Velvet—it is totally integrated. You can see the setting is very harmonious. This is an emotional product, and the technique is the emotion.

ESQ: Why did you reduce the number of tourbillons to only one this year?
GB: We just animated it differently this year with different colours, that's all. If you prefer double tourbillons, we can do that for you, particularly with the Rarities programme. It offers so many different possibilities. You can choose the colour that you want; we can change the case material, or the tourbillon. It is a very interesting tool for customers who want to create their own unique pieces. 

Excalibur Spider Skeleton Flying Tourbillon.

ESQ: How many custom pieces do you do annually?
GB: In a year, we do approximately a hundred. The most challenging to custom is the Spider due to the complex components of its case, which we need to manage to ensure that it has good quality and reliability. As for the movement, we will propose a few possibilities or an incredible possibility to the customer. A customer might ask for a different movement or complication, and we look forward to that. It is very interesting to be challenged by our customers. 

ESQ: What is your dream watch?
GB: The next one.

From: Esquire Singapore's May 2016 issue.