Vetements' Collaboration With 18 Labels For Its S/S17 Show Could Be The Next Big Thing

Juicy Couture evening gowns included.

BY BEATRICE BOWERS | Jul 4, 2016 | Fashion

For a high-street collective like Vetements, collaborations aren't unfounded. In fact, the Parisian brand pulls inspiration from a myriad of semi-anonymous designers and collaboratives to seasonally deliver collections that push high-end streetwear beyond definitive brackets. This S/S17, Demna Gvasalia and co. took it one step further with names like Juicy Couture, Levi's, Dr. Martens and more being tossed in the aestheticised mix.

Working with 18 brands may be daunting, but Gvasalia streamlined the process by zooming in on expertise first. “The idea was always to take the iconic, the most recognisable product from their brand, and put it into a Vetements frame, whether in terms of shape or construction,” he commented. The approach might be unconventional, but the brands were more than enthusiastic to comply. When Manolo Blahnik was approached to work with Vetements on shoes, he was all in favour of dismantling Blahnik's couture signature to suit the label's high-street ID.

"What they're doing is very clever and new," Blahnik said. And so it was. 

Menswear was blown out of literal proportion, with exaggerated silhouettes dominating the runway, elevated by irreverant touches like thigh-high leather boots and knee-length sleeves. It's a clever, tongue-in-cheek manoeuvre that excites, and marks cross-pollination of brands under a singular stylistic umbrella as something fashion punters should keep a keen eye out for. 

Given that labels like Gosha Rubchinskiy have also clambered on the collaborative bandwagon, the next fashion week runway could bear witness to more jaws dropping as velour-clad butts blazoned with diamanté embellishments take centre stage.