Paris Fashion Week 2017: Round-up
The highs and lows from the fashion week in Paris.
BY Eugene Lim | Jan 26, 2017 | Fashion
Esquire’s Fashion Stylist, Eugene Lim, interrupts stuffing his face with local food (11 days on the road will do that to you), to compile the best from Paris Fashion Week 2017.
We start with the elephant in the room. For years, streetwear has slowly crept into the world of fashion. The movement had just stepped up to another level when the largest luxury brand in the world teams up with the one of streetwear biggest name, Supreme, for Louis Vuitton’s A/W17 collection.
While their range of accessories—ranging from Louis Vuitton’s iconic trunk to skateboards, and of course, the Keepall—might have set the digital world on fire. But the collection is no one-trick-pony.
Kim Jones work with the Louis Vuitton’s ready-to-wear is no slouch either. Although the collection features a more relax silhouette that the younger crowd could identify with—low waisted pleated trousers (an amazing cut, might we add), sweaters, shirts and soft—it doesn't totally alienate that specific demographic.
While the collection spreads overstated luxury (duh), it's the finer details that caught our eyes: such as leather woven into cashmere coats and the fine fading of the house Monogram on their camouflage print.
While Louis Vuitton paid the ultimate tribute to streetwear, no one dominated like Demna Gvasalia did, the Creative Director of Balenciaga.
His realm of influence stretches all the way from the streets and into the work of other designers. He didn’t need the hype (a currency of streetwear), all he did was to won the silhouette of the moment—the juxtaposition of the proportions.
While the world looked on him, he fixed his vision on reworking corporate wear, melding it with his take on streetwear. Paying tribute to Cristóbal Balenciaga’s heritage, he began his work with tailoring in the form of roomly ankle length coats, slightly curved in at the waist, and oversized padded jackets. The stiff collars of the shirts are done away in favour of hoodies cut from the same fabric.
As stiff as the corporate wear can be, Gvasalia looked to inject comfort and one hidden away from sight. Luxurious wool trousers fitted with elasticated waistband, quilted flannel shirts, raincoats with bonded finishing, yet light as silk, and triple sole sneakers also made headway.
With his signature silhouette, done with a twist of satire and sense of humour, Gvasalia has successfully propose a new uniform for the white-collar folks. That said, we still don't get the leather remake of Balenciaga paper shopping bag.
Every coronation of a new rockstar begins with a show, and Haider Ackermann did just that with his Creative Directorial debut at Berluti.
The presentation was theatrical and elegant. With a diverse casting that featured women on Berluti's runway for the first time, the models emerged from behind asmokescreen and maintained eye-contact with the audience—all set to a pulsating soundtrack.
The models could have been sent out in rags and it would still qualify as a great show, but Berluti A/W17 collection gripped Paris by its fashion collar.
Ackermann kept to the masculine, yet elegant, spirit of the house. Featuring menswear staples such as tailored jackets, blousons, and parkas worn with cropped trousers paired with ankle-high boots, his work began when he injected his signature pairing of colours, fabric choices, subtle detailing and rock-star attitude.
The ethos of the collection is summed up from the coats made with silk and satin blend. Ackermann included this because he wanted the fabric to leave a warm and lasting impression. Well, he certain did that with this collection and the new era at Berluti is off to a great start.
The suit is such an iconic piece of menswear and as great as it makes men look (seriously, try it on for size if you have not) Kris Van Assche is never satisfied with just sending out another collection of suited men. As the customers evolve, Dior Homme’s Artistic Director ponders on how could he make the suit more appealing to a younger generation—one currently obsessed with streetwear—without alienating his existing clientele.
This season, he looked to music for inspiration. More specifically, New Wave and Rave as he pairs tailored jackets worn over streetwear-inspired trousers and sweaters.
While his signature use of black, white and red appears liberally throughout the collection, he expanded his colour palette with the injection of bright orange and green.
Our favorite pieces are his collaboration with artist Dan Witz where hyper realistic paintings of mosh pits appears on Van Assche’s coats, bomber jackets, and suits. It was a riot of a collection done tastefully.
To fully understand the beauty of Hermès A/W17 collection, one must understand what it means to look good in the eyes of the French. Ironically, in one of the most iconic fashion capitals, being fashionable means very little.
In my opinion, it is much preferred to look elegant instead—a quiet understanding of style with a fit and proportion that flatters.
Head Menswear Designer Véronique Nichanian looked at reworking the proportion—a wider leg, softer drop shoulders—but never into an exaggerated territory.
The silhouette is elegant but what makes Nichanian great is her attention to the details. With the choice of fabrics—belted double breasted coats corduroy, velvet suits, an exotic croco paneling in the blousons for texture and the crème de la crème, a fur cable knit sweater—Nichanian’s collection is a form of understated French elegance at its best.