4 themes within Fendiís S/S16

We take a closer look at Fendi's S/S16 menís collection to discover one of the most well-rounded collections to date.

BY Eugene Lim | Feb 11, 2016 | Fashion

Images from Fendi

Silvia Venturini Fendi has often credited her accessories-designing background for giving her a different perspective when it comes to design, making her more appreciative of the functionality of clothes. But that is not to say that the work is utilitarian, because what separates her from the pack is an understanding that functionality by itself is boring and there is always room for form and luxury.

Compared to Fendi’s AW15 tour de force of outerwear, suits and layering, this collection of oversized jumpers and wide-cut trousers may at first seem a tad casual. However, the devil is in the detail and Fendi’s contemporary vision reveals itself in the fact that she doesn’t compromise with trends. Her subtle amalgamation of form, function and luxury is imbued with a dash of her signature playful irony.

This collection of basic pieces for a man’s wardrobe—from a sharply cut polo T-shirt to a crewneck tee and a classic zip-front leather jacket—at first glance appears deceptively simple yet it is this very simplicity that provides an understated elegance. The details are considered and functional and, as with every Fendi collection, the basis of each piece—the fabric—is used innovatively and to maximum appeal, exotic or otherwise.

1. Keep it simple
The tees and the polos—the basic building blocks of every man’s wardrobe—are injected with heft and texture from woven jersey, which lends a soft touch while retaining an unprecedented lightness due to the weave. 

2. Big is bold
While there are oversized jackets that fall slightly off the shoulders to voluminous trousers and Bermuda shorts, the look never veers into sloppy territory. The key is the juxtaposition of contrasting volumes, where tailored jackets are paired with slouchy trousers, and vice versa.

3. Chiaroscuro
Shadow play is the means by which Fendi incorporates artistic elements into the collection. Oriental and floral prints manifest in subtle tone-on-tone embroidery, adding texture and a touch of exoticism with monochromatic finesse.

4. Bag it
Fendi’s deft blending of organic and inorganic materials, such as Selleria leather with metal rivets and stitching, culminates in the key bags of the collection: the Peekaboo and the new Lui bag. While not for everyone, the maison’s latest Bag Bug has also grown a little meaner and tougher since we last saw it, and now, sports a fur Mohawk. You might have problems getting into your local dive, but this bag boy won’t.

First published in Esquire Singapore’s February 2016 issue.